Author Archives: Jesse Dare

Bryon, Mike and Carla Part 2

This entry is a little more detailed, probably due to the increase in good food and being with people all day.

This morning I could hear Mike stirring on the main level of their house.  We were supposed to be on the road by 7 AM, stop at a donut shop 18 miles up the road and then ride as far as we could before stopping for lunch.  After lunch, somebody would pick us up and bring us back to Mike’s for another night. Bryon was slow to get up and Mike kept repeating, “this is stupid”, but I knew they were excited.  I was excited to have someone to ride with…and donuts!

On the road, Mike took the lead and Bryon sandwiched me in the middle.  This formation did not last long.  They figured out very quickly that I am a much better descender than climber.  We were making good time, running about 17-18 with a nice tailwind.  At one point I hear Bryon yell “segment” and I see Mike take off.  Mike, I am guessing, is the King of Strava within a 50 mile radius of Kincaid.

The highway narrowed and the traffic picked up entering Garnett.  Odd how that is.  We did have one trucker that decided we were not meant to be on his road and proceeded to honk at us to get out of the way.  There was no shoulder, traffic was coming, so I jumped in the middle of the road to block him from passing (before he started to honk and with enough time for him to slow down gracefully).  Otherwise, he may have polished his rims with my saddle bags or ran me off into the ditch.  Bryon took great offense to this guy and I’m glad we did not find him at the donut shop.

THE DONUT SHOP! I have had zero donuts since starting, or at least zero that I remember.  As we are rolling through Garnett, Bryon takes the lead and Mike has to holler at him that it is the yellow sign on the left.  We pull in, and it is closed.  The owners decided to take a vacation.  It was a sad moment.  Until, we pulled into a Casey’s just up the street and they had donuts!  So I got my donut after all.  I was so excited, and hungry, that I forgot to take a photo.  This photo of me carrying the donut to the park will have to suffice.

The park was also wear we got on the Prairie Spirit Rail Trail that runs from Humbolt to Ottawa.  My spirit was better, but my legs were gone at that point.  The trail did not help.  Went from semi-smooth pavement to pea gravel.  It was a well kept trail.  Come to find out you are suppose to pay and have a permit to use it.  My pace dropped from an easy 15 to a hard 8.  The guys ahead I doubt were even pedaling and I could not keep up.  We stopped at a bridge for a little photo-op before trudging on.  

Finally, the guys pulled into a rest stop with shade, bathrooms, cold water, and sprinklers going!  A little down the trail is a fair.  The same fair that Mike’s friends were showing their goats at.  So, we ride over, after a little rest.

After spending some time with the friends and animals we decide to get off the trail and go the rest of the way to Garnett by highway.  My pace is now hovering around 11-12 and 9 on the hills.  Again, I look up and I see not just Mike but Bryon too take off.  I loose sight of them just as I hit a piece of glass.  Tires check out with no visible punctures.  It takes another 5 miles for me to finally catch up.  As soon as I ask who won, they take off again.  When I caught up to mike he was standing off of his bike and Bryon a little ways up ahead.  He flatted, but I think he still won.  We walk the bikes over to the gas station and wait for Carla to pick us up for lunch.  We were probably not but a mile from the lunch spot.  Here are our lunches.  You can guess who had what.

Fajitas for dinner.  But first, I had to get caught up on the blog.  I was two days behind, probably why the last two were abbreviated.  

After only two days I think I may be converting Mike and Carla.  Mike got extra vegetables for dinner and Carla made an egg-less cake! He also bought a few pounds worth of meat, and him and Bryon tried slipping me meat throughout each meal…baby steps.  

Everything came together perfect that night.  Mike’s new griddle arrived just in time to cook dinner outside and a storm rolled in, cooling it down and lowering the humidity.  We ate dinner out on the patio with the cool breeze.  The clouds even waited for after dinner to start the rain.  We spent the rest of the evening under the covered porch watching the storm and talking.  Actually, they watched the storm and talked.  I was in a chair trying not to fall asleep.

Before bed, Mike offered to make pancakes on the griddle for breakfast.  That banana, blueberry, lemon cake was really good.  That would be my breakfast if Mike didn’t offer to make the pancakes.  With the blogs caught up, laundry done, and probably the best meals I have had in a while, it was a good start to my recovery weekend.

Mike and Carla were amazing hosts.  They went above and beyond to make sure I was comfortable.  Thank you guys.  And thank you Bryon for making the trip up and the connection.

Bryon, Mike and Carla

I was supposed to meet Bryon at Mike’s place in Kincaid at one.  I slept in the best I could, thinking it would be an easy ride.  I got to thinking about the mornings that I woke up to go to work.  I was rarely unmotivated, but by the end of the day I was mentally exhausted.  All I wanted to do was veg out on the boat.  Just the thought of physical activity made me tired.  The days that wore me out the most were when I was in the office all day.  Now, I am on the road constantly and I am still wore out, but in another way.  My entire body is tired, tight, and achy.  I do a few stretches every morning to help wake everything up, but even that is not helping much.  It is time for a real day off, but not today.

For breakfast I had peanut butter crackers.  I should have had more, or at least stopped somewhere along the way.  I did mix up a gatorade, which helped.  Right before leaving some siren that sounded like a tornado warning went off.  I was hoping that it might lift me up and carry me to Kincaid.  Rather than getting back on Hwy 169 with the trucks and no shoulder I opted for the old highway.  It took me through a couple of small towns, but eventually led me to a gravel road. From there I got back on Hwy 169 for a short stretch before going east on another highway.  One with a little more shoulder and less traffic.  I wanted to stop somewhere to grab a snack, but Mike said was going to have pizza waiting!

The ride east was difficult with that wind from the south hitting me.  I kept thinking that I would run into Bryon on the highway and he would offer me a ride in.  Once I got cell service I saw that Bryon offered just that, but Mike shot him down (thanks Mike).  Heading north again and I have the wind with me.  Not as strong as yesterday, but any helps. 

Sag wagon Bryon

With only five or so miles left I hear a car trailing me.  I thought there might be something wrong with them so I wave them to pass.  When I look back it Bryon with is flashers on.  Him and the pizza were the only things keeping me going.  It was hot and I was out of juice, both energy and gatorade.  Bryon to the rescue, he hands me a cold water.  With only a quarter mile to go I see a bike pull onto the highway.  It was Mike, there to escort me in.  

The Pizza!

This is the pizza.  I know it was hard for Mike to order a pizza without meat and probably even harder to order one without cheese.  I appreciate that he risked his carnivore status for me.  When Carla, Mike’s wife, got home the meat pizzas and chicken wings were cooked.  After dinner and a few beers they wanted to visit their friends’ that were prettying goats to show at the fair the next day.  There is lot that goes into getting those goats ready to show.  Mike pitched in by rubbing one down with shaving cream or something similar.  We also got a tour of their farm and chance to meet all of the goats.  

Getting pretty

On the way home, a deer decided to tackle the truck.  This put a small damper on the rest of the night.  We spent the next couple of hours outside on the porch chatting.  The plan for the next day was for Mike and Bryon to ride their 5 lb carbon bikes with me up to Ottawa and then catch a ride back to his place and spend another night.  The closest donut place was 18 miles away so we would get up and ride their for breakfast.  Forty mile ride in the morning with donuts sounded pretty good.  

Post-ride look

One Week on the Road

At this point I’ve actually finished day 9, but am behind on my posts.  At the end of Day 7 I traveled 354 miles, averaging 10 miles over my predicted average.  According to my bike computer I have burned 17,700 Calories.  I still weigh the exact same as I started.  Those 50 cent, 400 Calorie pies must be keeping me good.  No cramps either.  I have had one flat and one mishap with a bolt coming loose on the rack.  On Day 7, I rode from Coffeeville to Chanute.  At the beginning of the day I was thinking about taking the day off staying in the barn.  Lack of food and people expecting me up the road got up and around.  

Hwy 169 from Coffeeville is a four lane divided highway with a 6 ft paved shoulder.  I was making good time with a 20-30 mph tailwind.  My legs were fresh after the good night sleep in the barn.  I had been craving pizza since I left from Arkansas.  I even told my mom to let the family in Chanute know that I will meet them at the pizza parlour.  This is the closest I could get to pizza though.  It’s a veggie meatball sub (minus meatballs) on a flatbread.   

From there I rode maybe 6 miles before spotting a rest stop.  I wasn’t tired but it looked like a good place to sit down and write.  After finishing a blog post I set out.  By this time it was HOT!  The wind was blowing harder, but it was like someone following me with a heat gun.  Eventually, that four lane divided highway turned into a two lane highway with gravel shoulders.  Here is an example of what you see traveling through Kansas.

All or most of the small county roads that I saw were this white gravel.  The farms were either soy bean or corn.  I was told later that I would break my teeth trying to eat that corn.  Not sweet corn, but feed corn.

About 15 miles out from Chanute the traffic started picking up.  Those that are leary about riding in traffic would have a hard time on this stretch.  The big trucks weren’t giving me any space.  Hot wind, hot sun, hot pavement, and hot exhaust made the last stretch brutal.  When I finally arrived at my cousins house I remember them commenting that I was looking rough, but two gatorades and an hour in the A/C brought me back to life.  

That night, more family members came over to visit.  After a shower, visiting, laundry, and dinner I was ready for bed.  That makes the third bed I have slept in while on the trip.  Three out of four nights is not bad.  Thanks for everything, especially the gatorade packets! These things get me through the harder miles. In the morning I am supposed to meet up with Bryon and his friend Mike in Kincaid, 40 miles northeast.

Tractor Drafting

Seventy Miles!! The goal was to reach Coffeeville, KS for the night.  Goal accomplished with a detour.  After Aunt Tudy made me eggless, banana pancakes for breakfast and the road, I packed up and set out.  On Hwy 20 North I spotted my first cyclist.  I of course had to catch them.  That, was the detour that led to me riding 70 miles.  

Enter Tammy and Doyle (not pictured).  Once I caught up to Tammy she insisted that I visit their local bike shop and I’m glad I did.  Janice, the owner of Bike-About, had a collection of overseas tours under her belt.  After talking for a bit we went outside for this photo and found my front tire had a flat.  I must have picked up a piece of glass somewhere that day.  She fixed me up with a spare tire and kickstand.  The kickstand will need some work.  I tend to kick it when pedaling backwards.   Thanks guys.

I did not leave Chanute till after 11 and by then I was already getting hungry.  About 10 miles down the road was Will Rogers’ birthplace, the Iron Dog Ranch.  This place had A/C, cold water, bathrooms and a great view.  Perfect stop for lunch. 

Tractor Dafting

 I stayed on some of the county roads to avoid the 18-wheeler trafffic.  Instead I found tractor traffic.  This kid and his grandpa were super cool.  They slowed down to let me pass, but when I told them to keep going, they pushed the tractor up to speed and I got a nice draft for several miles.

Fried mushrooms and fries

At the next town, I stopped at the local library to rest and do some writing.  The ladies there suggested I stop by The Depot for dinner.  Above are french fries and fried mushrooms!  The mushrooms were too much for one setting so they were also my second dinner.  

With 20 miles to go on my 70 mile day I was feeling defeated.  It was hot, I ate too much, and I no longer had the wind at my back.  I was going to call it a day when my mom text me about some bike camping place in Coffeeville, KS.  I pictured a little cafe with A/C, showers, and eye-bolts inside to hang the hammocks.  I also invisioned meeting other touring cyclists, maybe even young female cyclists.

It was a disappointment, but a good place to stay.  All of the restrooms near the campsites were closed so i had to search the park for a bathroom.  I found a shower that sprayed scaulding hot water and the bathroom looked like it hadn’t been maintained over the years.  I jumped in and out quick because there were some sketchier looking people than myself hanging around outside.

Stock barn camping

Rather than spending the $8 for a piece of grass out in the open I chose the stock barn.  I have electricity running into the hammock and it was nice and cool under the shade.  Nobody bothered me all night, not event the insects.  

Forty by Noon

I have to stop writing the day after.  I am forgetting everything that happened.  I think the ride was fairly uneventful, which is a good thing.  The roads were straight with only a few hills (at the very end).  Most of the day I spent with my Aunt Tudy, just lazy-ing around.  Oh yea, pizza!!  I spent the night at a pizza parlour.  So the plan was to wake up, write a little, take a nap, and eat pizza when the store opened at 11.  That is not what happened.

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The night was long and sleepless.  The trees I chose were rather close together.  Ten feet is about the optimum distance for hammocking.  These were more like seven feet, but the best I could do that late at night.  It took me till probably 1 AM to realize that I could easily add more length simply by hanging the hammock from the outward facing side of the tree.  This added the radius of each tree to the hammocking length, which allowed me to lay flat!wp-image-686576415

These guys are what kept me up all night and disturbed my little bit of sleep in the morning.  Those trees belonged to their colony and they were protecting it.  In the morning they really got organized and started attacking.  My backside is now covered in bites.  At that point I was done and did not feel like sticking around for pizza.  I gathered everything up, away from the trees, and packed up.  The new goal for the day was ride to my Aunt’s place in Claremore.

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I made real good time and was hardly feeling the miles.  I stopped at the Amish Cheese House to collect my free sample of every pie they made.  Sorry Jamie, closed on Sundays, ride on.  Since I didn’t get any pie I stopped at the next town for lunch.  What I was really looking for was a small container of Gatorade mix to carry with me.  Gatorades are expensive! No luck, I had a quick bite and got back on the road.

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My bike is built to ride through most anything.  We got a little muddy on the next leg.  Google said to take a county road to connect to the highway going West.  Google did not say what kind of road it was.  It quickly went from paved to gravel to dirt to mud.  My pace slowed significantly once I got on Hwy 20 West.  The wind, hills, and sun were starting to get to me.

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Finally, past the race course and up the hill to Aunt Tudy’s house.  She had a lovely patio that I wanted to sprawl out on, but first layed out all my gear to dry and used her sprinkler as a shower.  Her neighbors, which turned out to be my cousins, probably did not know what to make of me.  When she arrived from church we sat and talked before heading to the grocery store.  We spent the rest of the evening talking, cooking, and eating.  Oh, and she also fixed the tear in my hammock.  I blame the ants!

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Here is the recipe for the date bread.

Date Honey Nut Bread:

  • 2 Cups pitted dates
  • 1 Cup flower
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1 Tbsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • 1/2 Cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 Cup brown sugar
  • 1/4 Cup honey
  • 1 banana
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 1/2 cup chopped pecans

Throw it all together and bake at 325 F for 1 hour.

First Rest Day…sort of

Yesterdaay, I had planned on taking it easy and only doing 20 or so miles.  It seems like so long ago now.  There was rain, hills, blackberries, a booze cruise, Northeastern State University, and a pizza motel.  Oh, and a total of 60 miles!

Started off with a waffle with peanut butter and a shower and clean clothes and cool temperatures and then rain.  I don’t ride in the rain.  Well, I don’t ride in THAT rain!  Light mist to drizzle is fine.  Heavy wind and needles is not.  I could see the storm brewing in the West, but the cars coming towards me were dry.  I passed up many good places to take cover.  When the bottom finally fell out I pulled into the first yard with a big tree. Behind the big tree was a barn.  It was very tempting to hang the hammock from the posts, but I did not want to give the farmer any more reasons to shoot at me.

I stayed there for about an hour which gave me time to rest and start a new book.  The rain had not completely stopped, but it was in my comfort zone.  Another 10 miles down the road and I was looking for another place to hide.  This place looks like an old store of some sort.  It looks small, but had probably three levels in the back.  I stopped there for another hour and had a snack of some almonds and some blackberries I found around back.  

 I made it to Tahlequah by probably 1 and was thinking that a bowl of soup would be nice after the cold and rain. (Soup still sounds good as I am writing this.)  But, I got distracted by this giant waterslide.  Once closer I noticed they were renting kayaks and tubes for floating.  The girls there about had me talked into going but I was too hungry to sit on a tube for 3 hours.

In hindsight I should have gotten on the tube.  The soup options in town were limited and nothing else was worth what the stores were asking.  Bagel and peanut butter again.  Walking around town looking for food was a welcomed rest from being on the bike.  Afterwards, I did the historic trail around town, which led me to Northeastern State University.  Strung the hammock up there for an hour deciding to move on or make camp for the night.

I made it to the Sequoiah State Park by 7 and started searching for a place to clean up, eat, and camp for the night.  I get asked all the time where do I shower.  I live in a state park so this is an everyday occurence.

Camping was more of a challenge.  I rode an extra 10 miles around the park looking for a place to hammock.  Everyone kept telling me the park rangers are diligent and will charge me $14.  That’s a lot of food!  So I left out with just enough light to get to to the next town.  I stopped in at the first place with two trees close enough for hammocking and it happened to be Pizza Port.  Plan was to take the morning off and eat a couple of pizzas for lunch.

Waterfall Shower and One Hill

Last night I stayed at the Cedarville High School football field.  This morning I woke up to the grounds creew standing on the hill discussing the guy that slept on the football field, so I packed up and got on my way as quickly as possible. 

I went to a nearby park and contemplated the day.  Should I keep riding north? How far should I ride? Should I take a day off?  I mapped out all the different routes trying to find the one with the least amount of climbing.  I did not set off until nearly 10. The only real reason I chose to go north out of Fort Smith was to see the waterfall at Natural Dam.  More accurately, to shower in it.  

Natural Dam

It did not take long to get to the site.  I stripped off the riding gear and into my modest shorts (for when I am with people that don’t like spandex).  As soon as I chose which waterfall to shower under, these 5 teenage girls come bopping down the trail.  I couldn’t very well shower with them watching, so I pretended to play in it until they were upstream.  

The shower and rest did my legs good.  On the way out I filled up the water bottles at a nearby diner and got to talking to an older fella.  He informed me that there was only one hill between there and the next town.  This lifted my spirits, but I did not completely trust what he had said.

There was a hill, and I climbed it!  It felt great going down the other side knowing that I beat the only hill on the ride.  That wasn’t the hill… It was a hill, but to him it must only have been a speed bump.  The next hill seemed more like a mountain. 

Best site after a climb

It was an eventful day. At the bottom of this hill is Evansville. I stopped at the diner there for a lat lunch. My nurse tells me that I should hydrate and eat more, so this was for you Stuart!

Fries with salt, beans with salt, cornbread with salt, and four glasses of tea

I asked a couple nearby for route advice and they strongly suggested going west then north. So, that is what i will do. I didn’t catch their names, but thank you. They were nice enough to buy my lunch.

Heading west means crossing the Oklahoma border! I almost missed my photo-op because I was going down hill and was not stopping. Now I am in Stillwell. And this is the first thing I did.

Those kids kept turning the water on and off on me

And, my dad met me with my beard trimmer! I think I will keep going for a while. My brother said that if Forrest Gump did it then I should too. I left my Specialized bib and Eddie Bauer shorts with my dad. He got me dinner and a hotel, so I’m living easy tonight. Thanks!

Too tired to eat

I Walked

The day started early, left out at 7.  Made it 20 miles down the road with ease. Once into Fort Smith I ran into my first idiot driver. He decided, on a 4 lane, that he was was not going to give me space. I thought afterwards that I should have fallen into his car. That would teach him, but I doubt I could bring myself to do it. At the next light I caught up to him and planned to educate him on being a decent human. He had a blue license plate, so i backed out. I excused him because he was disabled, but is that an excuse? I can’t remember how many times I’ve had this same thought. So, next time I will tap on the window.

After that encounter i went to the University of Arkansas at Fort Smith. I spent most of the day there, checking out the campus and using their computers. 

I changed my route a bit. Instead of going west then north I am going straight north up the border of Arkansas. I wanted to visit Natural Bridge and take a dip in yhe creek there. 

Dead and only half way

The ride North out of Fort Smith was rough. I got another 20 miles in after noon, but they were slow. I did find a nice water park with geysers to ride through. I may have scared some kids in the process.

That first peak

My legs were not ready for all of the climbing and I ended up walking the steeper hills. I was hoping to last longer than day two before walking. My hope is that these hills will give me strength, even if I have to walk a few.

Day #1

Started not so early this morning.  Jason and Bryon joined me for the first 30 miles. It was very nice having someone to talk to and draft off.   It was overcast and cool most of the way, which made for a pleasant ride. I learned real quick that hills are not as easy when fully loaded. Weighed the bike this morning and it was 30 lbs. That plus the 20 lbs of gear, bags, water, and food and i would guess the whole rig weighs 60-65 lbs.  

Thanks for the send off!

We rode non-stop the first 30 before reaching Paris. There we stopped at the Grapevine Restaurant for lunch. Bryon and Jason made the comment that they would ride that route again just for lunch.  

I guess my blistering 12 mph pace was not enough to wear the guys out so they took off up Mt. Magazine, while I continued west. My pace died quickly with a full stomach and the Sun popping out.  I stopped for rest about 10 miles down the road. Schools, parks, and cemeteries are my go to for places to rest. This cemetery had a pavilion and electricty. I took a good hour nap before moving on.

The last 10 miles were slow, very slow.  I spotted the clock tower in the city square from 2 miles off which lifted my spirit some. I had planned to stay at the High School in Charleston, like I had in the past. The city park came first and I needed a break.  I have been here ever since. Took a shower in the bathroom sink and ate dinner under the pavilion. Now, I’m back in the hammock waiting for nightfall.

The Day

Everything is layed out and ready to go. I spent yesterday working on the boat. New opening ports and solar vents installed, everything stowed, pumped out, and locked up.

All that is left to do is pack. I layed out all of the gear to make sure I am not missing anything. And, I left my beard trimmer on the boat.  I can get by a week or two without it.  I’ll also need to grab a patch kit on the way out. 

Meeting a friend and leaving from Wal-Mart in a little over an hour.  Shower, breakfast, pack, and I’m off.

Goodbye Marina